Archive for September, 2012

The Beauty of Surfing

Posted: September 18, 2012 in Uncategorized

The Beauty of Surfing

Somewhere in the Carribean…

There is something very special about surfing…  It is hard to measure or define but it’s essence  speaks for itself.  It is immaculately beautiful.  Some call it a sport, others a lifestyle or a pastime, a hobby, but what rings true for me is that it is a dance with the cosmic divine, an interpersonal relationship with the Earth and Universe.  Waves are everywhere;  microwaves, radio waves, sound waves, ocean waves, they are how energy travels through time and space.  In the case of surfing the waves we as Surfers catch are pulsing lumps of power from the wind of storms sometimes thousands of miles away, sometimes from the opposite hemisphere.  These waves travel and as they do they organize themselves, refine themselves until, at last, they pound and crash upon a distant beach releasing all they are into rocks and sand.  To catch and ride these moving walls of water is to, for brief moments, tap into the motion of the Universe, to glide along with it, and meld with all that is.  This is not far fetched, it is reality, it is truth.  Surfing is not the only way to do this, there are many avenues, but it is by far the most complex, incredible and beautiful way that I have found.  In entering the sea one ritualistically, whether realized or not, abandons himself/herself to the whims of fate, we place our lives in the hands of God, so to speak, all in order to obtain what ultimately is POWER.  All ancient cultures speak of seeking power, even our modern one does, through sport, finance, competition for mates, etc…  In this day and age it is rarely recognized as such and, in my mind, some forms are purer than others and intent has a lot to do with that.  I don’t mean to sound judgmental, but Lord knows I am.   In leaving the continent to commune with the Earth and Universe I find that surfers are a special breed with a gift so great that if we describe it we run the risk of sounding pompous and entitled, and Lord knows we can be.  But with this entitlement also comes great gratitude and humility in the face of forces so much bigger than us.  If you surf you will at some point or other find yourself beaten down, humbled and humiliated by the monstrous hand of mother ocean.  You will tak your place amongst other creatures there who might consider you for their next meal, thus reclaiming your Universal right to being a part of the global food chain. Another guarantee is that you will see unmatched beauty as Surfing is bound to take you to some of the most magnificent places on Earth.  There is power in beauty.  Today, as I sit far from the Ocean wishing I were closer, I look upon the photograph above and it makes me think how lucky a man I am to know and understand this beautiful thing the world calls SURFING.